Milan championed a new mood of form-fitting elegance for spring/summer 2020, which saw body-skimming crochet and trench coats worn as dresses, in lieu of supersized proportions. The key message? Don’t overthink the accessories. A tight wardrobe edit – military details and tonal suiting included – wins.
Below are the five trends you need to know from Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2020.
The trend: crochet silhouettes
Where we’ve seen it: Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Missoni
What you need to know: The biggest names in Italian fashion have rewritten their definition of glamour for spring/summer 2020 to include a handcrafted touch. Bottega Veneta, Fendi and Missoni presented some of next year’s most stylish silhouettes in homespun yarn – see the pencil skirt revival that Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee does so well. Unpretentious as luxury crochet may be, it certainly isn’t made for the beach. Let these open knits inspire your upscale office or cocktail-wear come spring.
The trend: military details
Where we’ve seen it: Max Mara, Bottega Veneta, Sportmax
What you need to know: While it’s rare to have a season where military references don’t make an appearance, Milan saw a fresh take on utility uniforms. Gone was the counterculture mood of baggy combat trousers – instead, Max Mara’s legion of supermodels walked in sharp suits, ties included; while the ‘new Bottega’ tailored Bermuda short, fast becoming a house signature, took on a practical edge with officer-style pockets. All iterations are sure to pass any dress-code inspection with flying colours.
The trend: hothouse prints
Where we’ve seen it: Marni, Fendi, Versace
What you need to know: J.Lo’s surprise appearance on Versace’s SS20 runway, in a reworked version of her plunging 2000 Grammy’s dress, may have broken the internet on Friday night (and delighted an exhausted FROW), but it wasn’t the only showpiece to put hothouse prints in the spotlight. Fendi adorned patent skirt suits (and matching shoes, bags and bucket hats) with illustrated tropical botanicals, while Marni matched sculptural floral headpieces with sultry horticultural prints.
The trend: cream tailoring
Where we’ve seen it: Jil Sander, Tods, Agnona
What you need to know: We can only presume that sales of red wine are plummeting thanks to the abundance of luxury cream tailoring on this season’s runways: from Jil Sander’s achingly chic shirt combinations to the tonal full look at Tod’s. Despite being one of the hardest-to-maintain colours, there’s no denying the instant wardrobe refresh of this strictly hands-off shade.
The trend: trench coat-dresses
Where we’ve seen it: Tod’s, Bottega Veneta, Agnona
What you need to know: The trench coat is once again on the trends list this season thanks to the likes of Bottega Veneta and Tod’s, where lightweight gabardines and leather trenches were styled as dresses. It’s a look that’s destined to become a new norm next year, but in the meantime, for days when bare legs are not an option, look to Agnona and add leather slacks underneath.